socktails

Spinach-Kale Turnovers

2009-11-09T17:44:00.000-08:00

I love foods that involve seasoned, mushed up spinach. For instance, the spinach pies at Basha's, Andre's mom's spanakopita, and saag anything are all delicious.

After realizing last week that I actually like spending time in the kitchen and don't, in fact, have that many things I'd rather be doing, I have suddenly become interested in the kinds of time-consuming recipes I used to always avoid. Yesterday afternoon I made these spinach and kale turnovers, which involve both dealing with large, unwieldy greens and forming things out of dough. But it was fun and I didn't care! They are a lot like something I would buy frozen to take to work. So I froze them to take to work.

I figured out that a good way to de-stalk kale is to grab the end of the stalk with one hand, grab the leaves on either side with the other hand close to the stalk, and pull down. The stalk strips off pretty easily.

I also used pre-made pizza dough. The recipe calls for those fun dinner roll tubes you hit on the counter, but the store didn't have any. Pizza dough handles a little differently. Here is a video of the process.

All in all though it wasn't that difficult or time-consuming. I would make this again, maybe with a different filling, or maybe just the filling on its own, as a side. The combination of the kale and spinach created such a deep, complex, woodsy flavor, and the feta provided a nice balancing tartness.

Outfits

2009-11-01T12:13:00.000-08:00

It feels like New Year's day. Hungover and camped out on the sofa with the cat, looking at the wardrobe remix feed on Flickr. It is one of the things that make me happy.

Yesterday I bought a new pair of boots and tried them on with all of my outfits. They look great with everything I own, including a Wonder Bread costume.

Top 5 Things About New York

2009-08-11T17:59:00.000-07:00

1. Kishke and chopped liver sandwiches at a Hasidic restaurant in Williamsburg
2. Chewy delicious ramen at some place in Manhattan
3. Hot Cuban sandwiches at any hour of the day or night
4. The Spotted Pig
5. Burger made by the guys from Frankies at a BBQ
6. Jim Beam on the roof

Here Comes Summer

2009-05-08T09:24:00.000-07:00

There is a time and a place for drinking Charles Shaw out of the bottle. First Thursday at the Goldsmith Building.

Taste of the Nation

2009-04-28T09:28:00.000-07:00

Many thanks to Lance Mayhew for tix to Taste of the Nation, which I hit up with P-Co last night. There was so much great food from many of the best local restaurants, and fantastic wine and spirits. Also, I got to meet Lucy Brennan. It was all I could do not to ask for an autograph.

Some highlights:

Caprial’s Bistro
Pecan Blondies Layered with Chocolate Mousse and Topped with Sugar Honeycomb - I love blondies, and these were perfect and dense, with deep flavor from brown butter.

Clarklewis
Grilled Monterey Bay Calamari Salad with Poached Kingfisher Potatoes, Castelvetrano Olives, Wild Greens and Piment d’Espelette Oil - the calamari was uncommonly tender and flavorful, and the whole dish tasted so fresh and pretty - it made me get excited about squid again.

Fenouil
Salmon Tartare with Absinthe and Crème Fraiche - Absinthe is getting really trendy but its herbiness worked really well here.

Pazzo Ristorante
Fig Bellinis; Cold-Smoked Marlin-Wrapped Asparagus - Did you know Pazzo makes their own bitters? They were in the bellinis.

House Spirits
Corpse Reviver #2 - I love this drink. It makes me think of a bride rising from the dead.

Sake One
Moonstone Asian Pear sake (pictured) - I was skeptical but this is a well-executed sake. It's not sweet or cloying, and the pear melts into the creamy, round, mellow flavor of the sake creating a deep, complex yumminess.

P.S. Taste of the Nation is a benefit that fights hunger. You can also fight hunger for free by clicking at The Hunger Site.

The Aviation Blooms

2009-04-13T16:38:00.000-07:00

Violette, impossible to find not all that long ago, has been back for awhile, but for whatever reason I haven't crossed paths with it much - probably because whenever I'm at 50 Plates I feel compelled to order a daiquiri, and whenever I'm at Ten 01 I usually end up with something closer to brown.

All this by way of not embarrassing myself when I say that upon finally cozying up to a Violette-laced Aviation last week, I rediscovered one of my old favorite cocktails, in a completely new light. With Violette, the Aviation has all of the fresh-bitter complexity, with an added delicate prettiness creating a fuller, more decadent flavor profile. It's like hearing a new album by one of your favorite bands, or seeing a good friend dressed up fancy for the first time. And the cocktail turns the most exquisite color. Definitely worth the wait, and a reminder that I’ve really got to drink more often.

Beans and Rice

2009-03-04T18:23:00.000-08:00

I haven't been going out much, but I have been cooking a lot. Well, calling it "cooking" might be going a little far. Here is some of what I am excited to eat these days. And please, spare me the lecture about making beans from scratch and using fresh-grated parm. I don't care.

Spaghetti w/ Sausage

1. fry up 1 lb. bulk spicy Italian chicken sausage
2. add cheap pasta sauce from a jar
3. pour onto al dente linguine noodles
4. top with parmesan cheese from a green can

Beans and Rice

1. make some rice
2. open a can o' beans, rinse, heat up in a pot with some salt and crushed garlic, which may or may not come from a jar
3. optional: add shredded leftover chicken
4. top rice and beans with shredded pepper jack cheese, BBQ sauce, and/or sriracha

Intermission

2009-01-19T14:01:00.000-08:00

I don't have internet access at home. So this blog is on hold for now. Thanks for reading.

Recession Proof Mixology - Tonight!

2009-01-07T09:57:00.000-08:00

Ryan Magarian and the other House Spirits fellows are joining Kelley Swenson at Ten 01 for the first in the Recession Proof Mixology series, tonight from 5-7pm. Cocktails will be inexpensive and, most important, bound to be amazing. It looks like this is going to be a regular Wednesday night thing for House Spirits (rotating to different Portland bars), so whether you are trying to stretch your unemployment check or need to forget about the job you still have, these nights will give a nice little shot of decadence to your week.

Here's tonight's menu:

The Old Fashioned Gin Cocktail
Locally renowned as the “Oregon Fashioned”, our exact recreation of the original cocktail as noted on May 13th, 1806 in the Balance and Repository Newspaper of Hudson, NY
Aviation Gin carefully balanced with a note of sweetness and healthy dashes of Regan’s No.6 Orange and Peychaud Bitters.

The Cloister Cocktail
First spotted in the 1977 cocktail recipe encyclopedia, the Jones Bar Guide, this drinks is a complex and refreshing balance of Aviation Gin, Yellow Chartreuse, freshly squeezed lemon and grapefruit juices.

Botticelli
Medoyeff Vodka and Aperol Italian Bitters make sweet music with house made clover honey syrup and freshly squeezed grapefruit juice. Served up with a mere suggestion of prosecco and aromatized with a short burst of grapefruit oil.

Corleone
Hand pressed green grapes and fresh citrus bathe in an ocean of Aviation Gin and Clear Creek Distillery Grappa. Finished with a single magical dash of Regan’s No.6 Orange Bitters

The Trident Cocktail
Our good friend Robert Hess’ most notable contribution to the liquid arts.
Krogstad Aquavit carefully balanced with lengths Dry Sherry, Cynar, and Fee Brothers Peach Bitters

Local Liquor: Always Appreciated

2008-12-19T10:17:00.000-08:00

If you need to buy someone a present, nothing is more widely appreciated than a bottle of booze. And if you are going to give booze, get it from the source: House Spirits, one of my favorite local producers.

House Spirits makes Aviation gin as well as a handful of other small-batch artisan spirits. They just released a subtle and complex ouzo as part of their new Apothecary line, with other delights to follow, including a rum. If the unfinished rum I tasted at their workshop recently is any indication, this is going to be a really delicious product. My New Year's resolution is to drink more daiquiris. Anyway, here is the info:

The House Spirits Apothecary will be open this Saturday (tomorrow!), December 20th, from 11AM - 5PM for shopping and tasting, and every Saturday starting January 3rd, 2009:

HOUSE SPIRITS DISTILLERY & APOTHECARY
2025 SE 7th ave, Portland
Open from 11am-4pm
with tours at 12pm and 4pm
Tours limited to 20 ppl per tour
Please contact to hold a spot
tours@housespirits.com
503-235-3174

La Boucherie

2008-12-02T11:52:00.000-08:00

The day after Thanksgiving André's mom took us to la Boucherie, Sea Breeze Farm's new restaurant on Vashon. It was all anybody talked about for the rest of the weekend. Simply prepared meats so fresh they were practically still breathing, seasonal produce, and amazing wine also produced by the farm were presented in a tasting menu that included everything from "lamb scallops" to the best sirloin I have eaten in my life. If you live in or travel to the Seattle area you've got to check this place out.

Le Beaujolais nouveau

2008-11-23T16:37:00.001-08:00

So Friday night André and I attended the Beaujolais Nouveau celebration at the Heathman. It is apparently one of the biggest Beaujolais Nouveau parties in the country - who knew there were so many francophiles in Portland? I find it amusing that a culture with such supposedly high epicurean standards (France, not Portland) has produced an annual tradition based on a wine that nobody actually really likes. In any event, the Heathman party was pretty fun. We missed the suckling pig, but there was a bunch of really good cheese and crepes Suzette and macarons and a bunch of shrimps still with their eyes and whiskers. I love dressing up and hanging out in old-fashioned hotels for any reason, too. It makes me feel like Eloise at the Plaza, or a decadent, drunk old lady stepping on the hem of her evening gown.

Milking It

2008-11-11T09:00:00.000-08:00

The folks at Skyy have been pairing their vodka with milk. Not in a White Russian but Milk the movie, about Harvey Milk, who served on the SF Board of Supervisors and was the first openly gay man to be elected to major public office in the US. (And SEAN PENN plays him in the movie! And Gus Van Sant directs!) Skyy is launching a marketing campaign to go along with the movie, sort of like they did with Sex & the City. (You may have seen the big, pink ads.) I am less interested in what's in a "Talk of the Castro" cocktail or how many opening parties Skyy is promoting than that this partnership is happening, period.

Cynics may just see it as an attempt to cash in, but while Skyy may be doing just that, along the way they are also raising awareness, helping to mainstream gayness, and even making a difference financially. As part of the campaign, Skyy is making contributions to LGBT organizations, including the Gay & Lesbian Alliance Against Defamation (GLAAD).

Companies are beginning to do this kind of thing more and more. Another example is Kimpton hotels, who have an active marketing & sales campaign targeting LGBT communities. Even though it's probably just numbers more than anything else - the product of a savvy market analysis and outreach plan - it still kinda warms my heart.

Weekend Report

2008-11-09T14:24:00.000-08:00

Friday night André and I hung out with our colleagues from the firm at 50 Plates. Highlights included an intriguing Algonquin, made from rye, dry vermouth and pineapple juice. They also have a great new drink called the Linda. Go in and ask Lance to make you one. Then run.

Saturday Autumn and I checked out the House Spirits open house, where Gwydion Stone's Absinthe Marteau debuted. Extraordinary. I also tasted the saffron vodka from Sub Rosa. It tasted kind of like curry - yummy, but I'm not sure what I would do with that. Any ideas?

Then that evening I made kasha varnishke for a friend's potluck. I am a West Coast, 21st century Jew. I go to work on the high holy days and I got my kasha varnishke recipe not from the matriarchs of my family but from Mark Bittman, aka The Minimalist, on nytimes.com. Well, that's how it goes. (Bittman, at least, is a fellow M.O.T.) It was still super good, and hopefully will keep my skinny goyish boyfriend from blowing away in the breeze.

Door 74 Opens

2008-11-02T13:53:00.001-08:00

Philip Duff, who has long been the face of Bols and Damrak gin, is striking out on his own with Door 74, a grown up bar with a reverence for history. After years as a brand ambassador, Philip finally gets to do exactly what he wants, putting his own stamp on Amsterdam's wonderfully, shamelessly stylish and romantic bar culture with classic cocktails, new creations, and an old-school attitude.

This excerpt from the bookish bar menu gives a taste of what to expect:

We do not have:

bad attitudes, a lack of patience, a door charge, a toilet charge, a wardrobe charge, any drinks companies paying us to stock crap brands, any products designed to appeal to the kind of people who watch more than one reality-TV show, untrained bartenders, energy drinks, low prices, loud music, tea or coffee, the policy of jamming as many people into the space as humanely possible, any problem with a beer and a shot of booze, any time for Paris Hilton*, too-small rocks glasses, too-large cocktail glasses, brandy snifters, sweetened cranberry juice, much vodka at all, neon straws (unless it’s Tiki Night), disco cocktails, small measures, any outstanding warrants for our arrest**, any desire to make non-alcoholic cocktails, or a bar mascot (although we’d quite like to have a sloth).

We do have:

Friendly staff, fast bartenders, double-frozen Hoshizaki ice for shaking and stirring, enormous globes of ice for liquor on the rocks, glassware freezers left, right and center, gorgeous liquor brands you’ll rarely see anywhere else (because they don’t have the money to buy their space on the back bar), faith in humanity, belief in the small of a woman’s back, the hanging curve ball, high fiber, good scotch, years and years and years of experience, a deep and abiding love of good liquor, great cocktails and lasting friendships, enough bitters to make Harry Johnson giggle like a fool, a tailor, owners who work almost every shift themselves, a belief that good drinks matter and grown-up people enjoy them, decent late-night snacks, excellent wines and beers, seats for everyone, late opening hours, a day off occasionally, and a lot of time for you. Thanks for coming.

*Except for Mr. Duff.
**Except for Mr. Duff, again

The initial cocktail list is a liquid biography of Charles Henry Baker, Jr (author of the classic Jigger, Beaker & Glass: The Gentleman’s Companion) with a Violette fizz, Remember the Maine, and other delights.

Unfortunately for me, this bar is in Amsterdam, but I am adding it to the long and growing list of things I absolutely must do if and when I make it back to Europe again. (I wonder if Bols has found a new brand ambassador...)

Door 74 is now open. While it is made for ladies and gentlemen, scoundrels, says Philip, are welcome. That means you. Please click here for more info. And for more than you ever wanted to know about Amsterdam's cocktail culture, you can read my story in Imbibe Magazine.

Proost!

Rosemary Toast

2008-10-27T07:38:00.000-07:00

Clarklewis has this thing on their happy hour menu that is like savory french toast with melted cheese in it. I tried to replicate it at home, and amazingly, it turned out awesome. Here is what I did:

1. Beat with a fork:
1 egg
a little milk
salt, pepper, garlic powder (the holy trinity of suburban food)
dried rosemary

2. Soak two slices of New Seasons's's whole wheat levain in the egg stuff
3. Heat butter in a skillet. Drop the bread in the skillet, pour remaining egg stuff over the bread slices
4. Fry on both sides, shred some mozzerella and melt it on top.

YUM! It was so savory, and not just in a "something that has salt in it" way but really, you know, umami-y. I had it with a Widmer Drop Top amber ale, which is a pretty whatever beer, but the French toast somehow brought out some nice fruity notes.

Forget the bars - next time, happy hour's at my place!

Photo: Rosemary French toast. Skillet: William Temple House thrift store. Avocado green 1970s stove courtesy of American Property Management.

Whiskey and Figs

2008-10-24T15:25:00.000-07:00

Wednesday night André and I made pizza for our friend Devin. For dessert, on Lance's suggestion, I paired the Eagle Rare bourbon I have been nursing since last Christmas (thanks Karen!) with fresh mission figs.

It was a good suggestion. I like the idea of pairing spirits or beers with simple desserts, but it's easy to overwhelm the sweetness and flavors of the drink with something too sugary like chocolate or baked things. As much as I love tooth-rottingly sweet things, this is the one case where I believe they are inappropriate. Once I thought Aventinus dopplebock would be great with oatmeal cookies, but to my palate the rich cookies made the beer taste flat and bland in comparison.

Something mildly sweet like bourbon (or probably Aventinus) is way better with something that's sweet enough to complement, but still lets the drink taste sweet and luscious when enjoyed alongside. Like these figs. Sweet but fresh. Delicious and weird. Voluptuously textured. The bourbon's buttery and vanilla-y qualities created a sort of pie crust effect, and the slow, thick mouthfeel contrasted with the clear, wateryness of the fruit in a way you wouldn't get when drinking whiskey with something containing butter or cream. Devin, please come back soon so we can do this again.

Tea at the Heathman

2008-10-20T08:35:00.000-07:00

I finally had the opportunity to check out the Heathman hotel's afternoon tea a couple of Saturdays ago. I have always been fascinated by old-school, continental-style luxury, partially because of all the complexities it stands for (or masks), and partially because it's fun and romantic when things are shamelessly, obviously elegant. I'm a big fan of F. Scott Fitzgerald for this reason; he does a good job of portraying both of these things in his stories.

Anyway, apparently tea at the Heathman is a Portland tradition; ladies bring their little girls for Christmas or Mothers' Day and everyone gets all dolled up and you get tiered platters with tiny crustless sandwiches. (I think there is even a special children's tea menu for finicky eaters - note the ants-on-a-log in the photo!) The tea room is full of brocade, velvet, 18th century-looking paintings in ornate frames, fresh flowers, gilt, and old woodwork. The table settings include tiny forks and cloth doilies.

They switch it up for holidays and special events, like last weekend, when Michael Recchiuti, an SF-based chocolatier, came in and chocolized the whole thing. (Michael also has a shop in SF's ferry building.)

Instead of tea we got a big cup of drinking chocolate (!!), and in addition to the deviled eggs, pate and scones there were all types of cocoa delights, like French-style macaroons made from cocoa nibs instead of almonds and an assortment of dark chocolates. The drinking chocolate was the best part, a Columbian varietal that had a surprising fruity brightness that balanced out the fatty richness for a very complex, full taste. I don't spend a lot of time tasting chocolates so I don't really know what I'm supposed to be looking for, but I could tell there was a lot going on in my cup.

With or without chocolate, the Heathman's fancy tea is a fantastic antidote to Saturday Sweatpants Syndrome, and all that sugar and caffeine are ample fuel for all kinds of additional frivolity.

Restaurant Guide

2008-10-16T08:41:00.000-07:00

Willamette Week's Restaurant Guide has arrived, nestled in this week's issue (also the endorsements issue - great cover BTW). Even if I hadn't contributed, I would still be urging you all to go out and snag a copy or two before they are gone next Wednesday, because it's a really well put together guide to Portland's dining scene. Despite being the supposed "expert" on dining out among my friends and family, every time someone asks me what "the best restaurant for (Indian/Thai/vegans/my parents) in Portland" is I draw a blank for some reason, and I find myself referring back to Restaurant Guide all the time. There are reviews of 100 of the city's best restaurants, and other goodies like Top 5 lists for lunches, outdoor dining, etc. Plus, in the last couple of years they have made it into a cool digest magazine style (with nice color photography and design), which is easier and more attractive to keep around than a newspaper section. And it doesn't cost you a dime. Get it while it's hot!

Drambuie

2008-10-09T08:45:00.000-07:00

Monday night I checked out the "Drambuie Den," a party and cocktail competition sponsored by Drambuie (of course) at the Doug Fir. Lance Mayhew of 50 Plates and My Life on the Rocks, Dave Shenaut of Teardrop, and Blair Reynolds of Trader Tiki and Acadia were competing, among others, and I wanted to see what they'd whip up.

Drambuie put together a pretty impressive event. The club was packed to capacity. Waitresses in saucy red getups passed trays of various Drambuie cocktails. I had a Drambuie Ginger, which was very sweet but showcased the liqueur's herbal layers surprisingly well.

What struck me more than anything was the day-to-night. Many of the guests were wearing some combination of well-cut but neutral business suit pieces, sexed up with a floaty camisole or the subtraction of a layer. I always see magazine pieces on "going from day to night," but I never have seen it applied so adeptly and so literally in real life.

Dave Shenaut won the mix-off with his High Plains Drifter (recipe below). I ended up having to jet before the shaking even started, but Lance and Dave filled me in later. "I had a great time," Dave says. "Mostly I enjoyed hanging with the 'Ladies of Imbibe.' Oh yeah, I got to pose for a photo (shitty time to decide to grow a sleazy Portlander beard I guess). And I'm getting my first non-flair trophy since Tball."

High Plains Drifter

1 ¼ parts Gin
¾ parts Drambuie
¾ parts lemon
½ parts rose bud infused honey syrup
Dash peychaud's bitters

For the syrup, bring one cup of water to a boil and remove from heat.
Steep edible roses in water for 4 min and strain off the buds. Stir in 2 cups of honey and let cool.
Combine all ingredients with cracked ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a dried rosebud.

I Heart Karl

2008-10-03T09:24:00.000-07:00

Sorry, this has nothing to do with cocktails, but I had to share. The man kind of fascinates me.

October Pairing Dinners

2008-09-30T21:48:00.000-07:00

The boys at House Spirits are at it again with a couple of awesome-sounding cocktail dinners. The Carafe event sounds particularly interesting. I love eating at Carafe but the cocktails on their regular menu can leave something to be desired. Here's what’s in store:

House Spirits & Clarklewis Pairing Dinner, with chef Dolan Lane
Tuesday, October 7th, 2008 at Clarklewis, 1001 SE Water Ave # 160, Portland, OR
Dinner starts at 7:30pm
$95 per person gratuity not included, limited seating
Contact Kurt Heilemann for reservations 503.235.2294

• Roasted autumn squash with sweet coppa; The Aviation Cocktail
• House Krogstad-cured salmon with peperonata and mint; Pepper Delicious #2
• Spaghetti with Pacific bay scallops, tarragon, fennel and citrus; Botticelli
• Hearth roasted Carlton pork shoulder with apple dumplings, braised red cabbage and cider jus; The Hearst
Cocktail
• Chocolate torte with dark chocolate ganache and raspberry coulis; The Raspberry Bramble Burn

House Spirits & Carafe Pairing Dinner, with chef Pascal Sauton
Tuesday, October 14th, 2008 @ Carafe, 200 SW Market St., Portland, OR
Dinner starts at 6:30pm
$76 per person gratuity not included, limited seating
Contact Carafe for reservations 503.248.0004

• Gougères with Rabbit Pate, House Cornichons, Plum Compote; Breaded Escargots with Garlic & Parsley; French 75
• Foie Gras "Club", Foie au Torchon, Whole Roasted Foie, Roasted Riesling Grapes, Foie Chantilly; Christian's Ee-chem
• Butter Poached Dungeness Crab, Sauce Vierge, Viridian Farm's Peppers; Pepper Delicious #2
• Corn Crusted Sweetbreads, Crawfish Ragout, Sage Gnocchi; Lady Sage
• Braised Lamb Ribs, Heirloom Shell Beans "Cassoulet"; Trident
• Meredith's Treats; 30/20/1

By the way, I recently discovered that House Spirits lists a few recipes on their website, including their signature Pepper Delicious, a really fun application of Aviation gin.

California

2008-09-23T09:31:00.000-07:00

I just returned from a jaunt to the SF Bay Area. What a lovely place. Epicurean highlights of the trip included Tacubaya and Cantina.

Tacubaya is a Mexican restaurant on 4th Street in Berkeley that serves pretty standard stuff - enchiladas, tostadas, tortas - but the quality and freshness of the ingredients is exceptional, so even a basic dish can be extraordinary. I had this corn, black bean and zucchini tostada that kind of blew my mind. I don't even like tostadas.

Cantina is Duggan McDonnell's downtown San Francisco bar that specializes in complicated culinary cocktails. I had a fantastic Carmen Amaya, which involves rye, Cointreau and amontillado sherry. I love drinking amontillado sherry, and its complexity and tartness make it a great cocktail ingredient too.

Cantina also happens to be a block or two from the St. Francis Hotel, always good for a nauseating glass elevator ride or two.

In the House

2008-09-15T07:45:00.000-07:00

We paid a visit to Belly Timber Saturday night to see what Bradley Dawson has been cooking up. On offer was the Vesuvius, an intriguing concoction of smoked jasmine tea vodka and blood orange soda, an 1870 Sazerac with three types of bitters, and my favorite, the deliciously earthy beet margarita, made with fresh red beet juice with a golden beet salt rim. We hear there will be a new cocktail menu in the next couple of weeks, so stop in soon to be sure to try one of these.

We also sampled some snacks from the kitchen: sumptuous salmon mousse on cute toasts with beet chips, and a grilled peach with balsamic vinegar. Marvelous.

What's extra neat about the BT is that it's in an old Victorian house. The beautifully restored interior (left over from the building's previous tenants) makes one feel really old-fashioned and decadent, and Bradley with his atomizers and eye droppers evokes the era's ambitious inventors and scientists. It kind of makes me want to wear spats.

Bar Hopping: Actually Quite Economical

2008-09-12T08:39:00.000-07:00

Bad news: My student loans have gone into repayment. You want me to pay what? Are you kidding me? As it turns out, I am nowhere near as big a yuppie as I thought I had become, unfortunately. A gloom settles over me as I realize I might have to do without certain necessities, like pork belly.

Good news: Apparently I have resumed food and drink reviewing. As it turns out, decadence pays. Or at least, it pays for itself. Problem solved!

Photo: Happy hour Moscow mule and pimiento cheese toast at 50 Plates.